The electrical systems in your motor home are designed and built in accordance with all regulations, codes, and standards in effect at the time the caravan/RV was built. 

If you want to use on your journey your own electrical utensils please check at home already whether the voltage of your machines are in accordance with that one of the countries you are going to visit.
Shavers and hair dryers can usually been switched from 120 V to 220 V or v.v.
But there should be a check on the cycles, too. In some countries the electricity power is operating on 50 Hz and in others 60 Hz. This may cause a slower or a quicker (danger of overheating) run, depending on the cycles your tool has. Your own TV will not run, if there is not available the exact installed number of cycles. 
Also the plug connection systems may be different between countries. Best you buy at home already a multi plug adapter, which is good for different systems, and can be bought in either drug stores or electric shops.

Electrical Systems

RVs have three: The automotive (chassis) 12 volt system, the "house" 12 volt system, and the 110 volt system. The automotive electrical system has the prime function of providing a burst of 12 volt power which will start the engine. After that, the vehicle's alternator takes over and supplies all the electric current for other uses (lights, horn, stereo, etc). The coach has its own 12 volt system, but this one's based on deep cycle batteries -- these are designed to put out a relatively small amount of electricity for a longer period of time. How do the house batteries get recharged? When you run your RV, the alternator will recharge not only the chassis battery, but the deep cycle house batteries as well.

For maintenance, be sure to keep water level up inside the batteries. Use baking soda and water to keep battery terminals clean. Keep in mind even when you're not using the RV, there is still a small electrical drain going on.  Incidentally, in a pinch you can use the house battery to start the engine if the chassis battery should go dead. Happily there's an "isolator" which keeps the chassis battery from discharging into the "house". So if you leave the lights on too long in the "house", you won't drain your chassis battery.

The 120 volt system comes on easily when you plug into the campground's hookups. Also, most RVs will automatically recharge the house batteries whenever you're plugged into shore power. Also, the "converter" will automatically transform some of the 120 volt power to 12 volt electricity so you can run all your DC appliances. Incidentally, an "inverter" does the reverse -- it will take 12 volt power from the battery and change it into 120 volt AC power. But it's really only for smaller electric loads. It can't be used, for example, to run an air conditioner. Keep in mind it does drain your battery if you use an inverter!

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This is the vehicle electrical system. It includes the vehicle battery, charging system, ignition system, instrument panel and controls, and the headlights, taillights, turn signals, and other vehicle lights and accessories.

Fuses for the chassis electrical system are located under the instrument panel on the left. Additional fuses may be located under the hood. Others may be found in the 12-volt power leads on the related equipment and accessories.

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All 12-volt lighting fixtures, convenience outlets, 12-volt powered vents, freshwater pump, and 12-volt accessories are included in this system.

The 12-volt power is provided by special deep-cycle, high capacity coach storage batteries. Power is also provided by an AC/DC power converter for use when the motor home is plugged into a 120-volt power source. Battery charge is maintained by the motor home engine alternator, or by the converter.

Your motor home is equipped with a heavy duty pc cord to connect to an external 120-volt, 30 amp service. The cord and connector are molded together to form a weatherproof cable assembly. Do not cut or the cable in any way. Do not remove the ground pin ii cable connector, or defeat the ground circuit in the home.

DO NOT OPERATE THE 120-VOLT ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WITHOUT A PROPER GROUND. ELECTROCUTION OR SEVER ELECTRICAL SHOCK COULD RESULT.

Bathroom, galley and patio 120-volt electrical are protected by a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI device is intended to protect you against the hazardous electrical shocks possible when using electric appliances in the bathroom or galley or in damp Should a circuit or appliance (electric shaver, ha etc.) develop a potential shock hazard, the GFI is designed to disconnect the outlet (and others of the same circuit), limiting your exposure time.

Test the GFI at least once a month. To test connect to 120-volt AC:

Push the "TEST" button. The "RESET' I should pop out, indicating that the pro circuit has been disconnected.

To restore power push the "RESET" button.

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The 120-volt circuit breakers and 12-volt fuses are located in the same compartment. These devices interrupt the power if the circuit is overloaded.

The 120-volt circuit breakers include a 30 amp main breaker and several smaller breakers for individual circuits. If a circuit breaker is tripped, look for an overload on the circuit, then reset it by turning the breaker OFF and then turning it ON. Do not try to reset a breaker the second time without locating the overload problem. The 12-volt fuses protect individual circuits. If the circuit is overloaded, it will blow the fuse and the fuse must be replaced. Check the circuit for an overload and replace the fuse with the same type or amperage rating.

Campground Electricity

Some mobile home parks which accommodate occasional RVers will likely furnish a 50 amp receptacle; which means you'll need to also have an adapter which fits a 50 amp receptacle and will adapt to your regular 30 amp cord.

There can be a challenge for big rigs when only 15 amp receptacles are available. The problem is that the large rig will be constrained by the 15 amp source. The supply is "limited", and you won't be able to use, for instance, two air conditioners. The trick is to know the amperage draw of every electrical appliance in the RV. Amps are often given on the appliance itself. If it isn't use the formula "amps = watts/volts" to calculate the amps. Thus a 1200 watt microwave operating on a standard 120 volt system will be drawing (1200 watts/120 volts), or 10 amps. Where amperage is restricted, don't plug in a coffee pot while you're running a water heater or microwave. In other words, shut down some electric appliances while you're using others.

A common RV park problem which can be monitored is low voltage. This usually occurs in older parks, where wiring is inadequate. There is very little you can do about it. Voltage should be between 120-125. Low voltage is sometimes detected when a TV picture begins to "get smaller". When the voltage gets much below 110, it can be damaging to compressors, computers, and other electrical appliances. A small voltage meter can be purchased at Camping World. It will tell you in advance what the campground voltage is. Tip: In parks which have marginal voltage, the closer your site is to the panel box, the higher voltage you'll have. Avoid sites which are at the far end of the electric park's installation.

Circuit analyzers: Usually the wiring in RV parks are satisfactory. But a circuit analyzer should be plugged into the rustically first. It tells that current is on, and the polarity is correct. Reverse polarity can damage certain equipment, such as VCRs, TVs and computers.

Ground fault interrupters: Where there is an imbalance in the electric load, this device will shut down the entire circuit. It can be reset simply by pushing in the reset button. Some RV parks are using GFI plugs for their campground outlets -- which is unfortunate, as they often simply won't work. This can cause some unwanted surprises where the RV is equipped with an inverter, and unknown to the RVer the inverter runs through an entire battery bank before the problem is discovered.

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Trouble Shooting

What is the best type of batteries to use in my Inverter/Charger installation?

We always recommended that Deep Cycle batteries be selected. Deep Cycles come in several different forms. Wet cell batteries, Gel cell batteries and AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt) batteries. Wet cell batteries would include 6-volt (golf cart) batteries. Wet cell batteries do require some maintenance. Gel cell batteries and AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt) batteries are a sealed battery and typically require very little maintenance.

How many batteries do I need?

Two factors determine the quantity of batteries required. First, the type and case size of the battery selected on how many Amp Hours you want to use between charge cycles. Most people have a 400-450 Amp Hour Bank, but this depends on how you use your system

When do I need to recharge my batteries?

When your caravan/motorhome is not plugged in to a short line power, you simply idle your engine (while doing this monitor your engine to make sure you don't accidentally over heat the caravan/motorhome) for approximately 30 to 40 minutes, each night, around 8 o'clock. this a very simple way to make sure you go to bed with a fully charged battery.

Why do I need to equalize my batteries?

After 10-12 deep cycles (use approximately 50%) the plates become sulfated and over time the acid settles, so it is stronger at the bottom than the top. An equalize charge mixes up the acid so that is as strong at the top, as at the bottom, therefore getting as much electricity off the whole plate. Also it gets the sulfur off the plate so it can go back into the acid or fall harmlessly to the bottom.

Can I hook an extra battery charger up to the same batteries used by the inverter?

Yes. However, the high output 3-stage charger of the Freedom Inverter/Charger is generally sufficient to rapidly and completely recharge even large battery banks.

Can I run my DC loads off the charger without my batteries hooked up?

No. The charger is designed specifically to operate while connected to a battery bank.

Why do my batteries go dead when I use the inverter/charger in invert mode?

The Freedom Inverter takes the available Battery power and changes in into AC power to operate your household appliances. In many cases there are additional “hidden loads” that will draw power from the inverter even when they are turned off. Some examples are: TV tubes being kept warm, Microwave & VCR clocks and logic that are always on. In addition to the AC loads, there may also be DC loads that draw power from the same battery bank as the inverter. These loads can include CO detector, accent lighting, bay lights, and water pumps These phantom loads can consume over 70 Amp Hours a day and most bank would be dead in about 3 Days with the inverter on and no loads on.

Should I leave my inverter ON or OFF when shore power is available?

There are advantages and disadvantages to both methods. If you leave your inverter powered ON, you have immediate back up AC power should you lose shore power, but you might not know you have lost shore power until your batteries are discharged. If you choose to leave your inverter OFF you have the advantage of knowing when you have lost shore power but at the expense of losing automatic back up power capabilities.

Why am I reading only 100 VAC when my inverter is ON?

Most Multi Meters are averaging meters and read a modified sine wave anywhere between 90 to 130 VAC. If you have a true RMS meter your reading would be 120 VAC. If in doubt, check the intensity of an incandesent light bulb on shore power or generator and then on Inverter, the intensity will be consistant between the two. If the inverter were putting out 100 VAC, the light would be much dimmer on inverter.

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NOTE: This online manual  is a work in progress and is subject to change at any given time. It is also a generic peace of work and is meant only as a general guide. Each Caravan/RV is distinct and individual in it's own right, do not take anything written here literally as it may or may not apply to the exact Caravan/RV you will be using.