Fresh water is available from either an external "city water" hookup or on-board storage.

The external system is pressurized by the water system at an RV park or city water supply.

CAUTION

On some models, a manual valve also isolates the onboard fresh water storage tank. This valve can be used to fill the tank from the city water supply.

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Connect the city water system as follows:

• Open the protective door over the city water inlet (on some models only).
• Connect one end of a potable water hose to park or city water supply. This will usually be a faucet or valve similar to your garden hose valve at home. "Potable water" hoses are available at RV supply stores.
• Run the city water supply for a few seconds to clear the line.
• Turn OFF the supply.
• Connect the hose to the inlet fitting.
• Turn ON the supply. Open all faucets and clear the lines. Close faucets.

Disconnect the city water as follows:

• Close the park or city water supply valve.
• Remove the hose from the city water supply.
• Disconnect the hose from the inlet, coil and store it.

On some models, you can fill the fresh water directly to the city water connection. Open the tank fill v, remove the fresh water tank fill cap and vent plug. Monitor the filling of the tank continually. The i pressure at some park and city water supply ( damage the tank if left unattended. After filling i close the valve, replace tank fill cap and vent plug.

The on-board water storage tank may also through a special filler cap outside the motor. To fill the fresh water tank, open the spout, remove vent plug, and fill the tank using a potable water hose. Check the monitor panel often to determine when the tank is full. If water is flowing from the top vent, your tank is overfilled. Stop filling. After filling the tank, replace vent plug and filler cap.

Avoid leaving water in the tank when the motor home is not in use. Turn the water pump OFF before draining the water tank. Whenever possible, drain the fresh water tank before traveling. Water in the tank will reduce the carrying capacity of the motor home. Please read our Loading page for more information.

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Turn the pump master switch ON to pressurize the system. When a faucet is opened after the initial filling of the tank, the water may sputter for a few seconds. This is normal and is not cause for concern. The water flow will become steady when all air is bled from the water lines.

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Vibration, flexing and twisting while traveling pipe fittings loose. Check all plumbing for leaks, once a year. If the water pump runs when a faucet is close, suspect a leak. Be sure the tank drain tightly closed. Leaks occur most often around fittings. If necessary, tighten or clean the fittings. Do not over tighten fittings. Connection fixtures should not be tight (wrench. They will normally seal with hand-1 a leak persists at one of the fittings, completely and check for mineral deposits of foreign matter at the seating surfaces. Clean surfaces thoroughly and reinstall the fitting.

Connections at the water tank, pump are made with special clamps. They can be standard aircraft type hose clamps.

Leaks caused by freezing damage can be proper winterization of the system. See “STORAGE” chapter of this manual. Freezing damage is usually extensive and may include a burst water tank, split piping, and a damaged water pump, toilet, and water heater. If you experience this type of damage it can best be made by an authorized dealer.

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Sanitize the fresh water tank and piping ~ every three months, and whenever the m for a prolonged period. This will discourage the growth of bacteria and other organisms that can contaminate the water supply. Use a chlorine/fresh water rinse as follows:

1. Prepare a solution of 1/4-cup household liquid chlorine bleach (5% sodium hypochlorite) to one gallon of water for each 15 gallons of tank capacity.
2. Close drain valves and faucets, pour chlorine solution into the freshwater tank filler spout, and complete filling with fresh water.
3. Turn water pump switch ON. (Be sure you have 12-volt DC power.) Open all faucets individually until water flows steadily, then turn off. This will purge any air from the lines.
4. Top off water tank with fresh water and wait three hours.
5. Drain the entire system by opening all fresh water tank valves, faucets, and plumbing line drain valves.
6.  Flush the system with drinking quality water. Let the fresh water flow through the system for several minutes to flush out the chlorine solution.
7. After you stop the flushing, close the tank valve ' faucets, and drain valves. You can now fill the tank with fresh water, and the system is ready to use.

A shower fixture is located in an exterior compartment. The water pump must be ON or city water pressure must be available for the shower to operate.

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Water purifier systems help provide consistent drinking water quality as you travel. A special filter is part of this system, The filter cartridge is located in the cabinet under the galley sink. Your Owner's Information Package contains detailed operating and maintenance instructions concerning this system.

Please note that the special faucet at the galley is the only outlet for the purified water. Although purified water is not available at the standard galley and lavy outlets, the water available at these outlets is filtered by the water pump filter. Note also that this system is not designed for or effective in removing or neutralizing bacterial contaminants.

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The waste water system in your motor home is made up of sinks, tub, shower, toilet, plumbing drain and vent lines, a "grey water" holding tank, and a "black water" holding tank. Generally, water from the sinks and shower drains into the grey water tank; the toilet drains into the black water tank. The holding tanks make the system completely self-contained and allow you to dispose of waste water at your convenience. A flexible sewer hose is required to connect the holding tank outlet to the inlet of an approved waste water dump station or sewer system.

NOTE. Some floor plans require the shower and/or bathroom sink water to be drained into the black water tank.

The drain plumbing is similar to that used in your home. The system is trapped and vented to prevent waste gases from backing up into the motor home. The drain plumbing is made of ABS plastic, and is durable and resistant to most chemicals.

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Your motor home is equipped with a marine-type toilet.

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Your RV's plumbing system contains three main tanks - fresh water, gray water, and black water. Our attention will be focused on the latter two. Your gray water tank holds water that drains from your RV's shower, kitchen and bathroom sinks, and wash machine (if installed). The black water tank holds waste from the RV toilet. The two tanks are usually located next to each other and are accessible through one of your rig's outside compartment doors.

Both holding tanks use sensors to indicate when they are full or filling, usually sending readouts to the RV's monitor in increments showing empty, one-third full, two-thirds full, and full. Both tanks drain through the same outlet into a sewer hose, supplied by you, that carries the waste water to a sewer drain located in a campground or at a dump station. The black water tank drains through a three-inch valve, while the gray water tank drains through a one and one-half inch valve, so there can be no confusing the two.

Tanks and connecting pipes are usually made of ABS plastic and are quite sturdy. The pipe joints are almost always glued, so repairing or replacing usually involves some cutting. The exception is the P-traps beneath your sinks and shower, where the pieces are screwed together for easy removal. These traps are notorious holders of water, so pouring non-toxic antifreeze into each one when winterizing is highly recommended. The tank system's valves contain O-ring seals and sliding valves that should be regularly lubricated. Odors are vented through one and one-half inch pipes that exit through the roof of the RV.

System trouble spots are most often found in the sensors, the P-traps, the vent pipes, and the sliding valves. Sensors often become coated with waste, debris, or tissue. This causes them to send false signals to the monitor, making your tanks look fuller than they really are. Rinsing and cleaning every time you dump should keep them operating properly. If this doesn't do the trick, then your may have to use the "splash and drive" approach. Simply fill the tank with water and contact-cleaner solution and drive around to thoroughly splash the sensors with cleaner. Wait 24 hours, drive again, then drain and flush your tank. The sensors should be as good as new.

Aside from freezing water, the biggest problem with P-traps is clogging. If your water starts draining slowly, then it's time to open the trap and clean things out. Vent pipes, on the other hand, must be clear at all times to function properly. Blocked pipes will restrict flow, causing foul odors to enter your rig's living area and sometimes even forcing toilets to spit back toward the user. Make sure there is no blockage at the roof exit or that the pipes haven't been jammed into the bottom of the holding tanks.

Finally, regular care should prevent valve troubles. Use tank chemicals that clean and lubricate valves. Be careful not to bend, twist, or break valves when opening or closing them. It's also good to replace the O-ring seals every few years. If you see moisture around valves, P-traps, or sink bottoms, there's a good chance you have a leak or a valve that won't close properly. Clean, repair, or replace immediately.

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The holding tanks terminate in a valve arrangement that permits draining each tank separately or together. The valves are called "knife valves". A blade closes the opening in the sewer drain pipes. The blade is connected to a T-handle that is pulled to release the contents of the tank(s). During self-containment use, the sewer line is securely capped to prevent leakage of waste material onto the ground or pavement. DO NOT PULL THE HOLDING TANK KNIFE VALVE OPEN WHEN THE PROTECTIVE CAP IS INSTALLED ON THE PIPE. Always drain the tank into an acceptable sewer inlet or dump station.

WARNING

Whenever possible, drain the holding tanks before traveling. Waste water and sewage in the holding tanks reduce the carrying capacity of the motor home. Please read our Loading page for more information.

Drain the holding tanks only when they are at least 3/4 full. If necessary, fill the tanks with water to 3/4 full. This provides sufficient water to allow complete flushing of waste material into the sewer line.

During extended or semi-permanent hookups to sewage systems, waste materials will build up in the tank and cause serious plugging if the tank valves are continuously open. In these cases, keep the valves closed until the tanks are 3/4full, and then drain into the sewage system.

The holding tank drain valve outlet is to be used with a removable termination fitting that locks onto the outlet with a clockwise twist. Clamp the sewer drain hose to this fitting. A protective cap should remain in place when you are not draining the tanks.

NOTE: LOCAL OR STATE REGULATIONS MAY PROHIBIT HIGHWAY TRAVEL UNLESS THE HOLDING TANK OUTLET IS SECURELY CAPPED.

Here, in easy step-by-step format, is the correct way to drain your RV's holding tanks:

1. Wear two layers of gloves, with disposable sanitary gloves inside work gloves.
2. Open the sewer drain connector to check for obstructions.
3. Attach the sewer hose to the holding tank outlet. Insert the end of the hose into the sewer or dump station inlet, pushing it firmly far enough into the opening to be secure. In some cases, adapters may be necessary between the line and the inlet. Arrange the sewer hose so it slopes evenly.
4. Connect the other end to the sewer drain.
5. Brace the end of the hose with your foot or a heavy object.
6. Drain the black water holding tank first. Grasp the handle of the black water knife valve (the large one) firmly and slide the valve open with a quick, steady pull.
7. Insert a rinse wand connected to a garden hose through the toilet drain into the black-water tank.
8. Thoroughly rinse the inside of the black-water tank.
9. Allow enough time for the tank to drain completely. Rinse and flush the tank through the toilet. 
10. When the tank is empty, push the handle in to close the valve. Run enough water into the tank to cover the bottom. This will aid the break up of solid wastes.
11. To drain the gray water tank, repeat the steps above using the small knife valve. This tank is drained last to aid in flushing the outlets and hose. The gray water knife valve may be left open in a semi-permanent hookup.
12. Close the valve when empty.
13. Pour a small amount of diluted tank chemical into a sink or shower drain.
14. Rinse out the sewer hose with fresh water and remove the sewer hose from the dump station.
15. Cap the outlet.
16. Hose down the dump station apron.
17. Put away your sewer hose and rinse wand.
18. Remove the two layers of gloves without contacting the outside of the gloves with your bare hands.
19. Wash your hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap.
20. Add 2-3 gallons of water and the recommended amount of tank chemical to your black-water tank through the toilet.
21. Make sure the water pump is off, hoses are retracted and stored, valves are shut tight, and compartments are closed and locked.
22. Wash your hands again, if necessary.

PLEASE ... PRACTICE GOOD HOUSEKEEPING WHEN DRAINING WASTES AT A CAMPSITE OR DISPOSAL STATION. LEAVE THE SlTE IN GOOD ORDER. ABOVE ALL, DO NOT POLLUTE.

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The most common additives found in newer holding tank products include tank cleaners, waste digesters, deodorizers, toilet tissue digesters, gauge sensor cleaners, and drain valve lubricants. When shopping for holding tank chemicals, look for products that contain as many of these additives as possible.

The primary function of tank chemicals is to break down waste and remove odors. Older products used formaldehyde to very successfully prevent odors. However, many septic systems can't break it down and it has a nasty habit of killing "good" bacteria. As a result, nearly all campgrounds and dump stations prohibit the draining of formaldehyde into their sewer systems.

A nice, modern alternative is enzyme-based toilet chemicals that use live bacteria to digest odor-causing agents and break down solid waste. They are designed to accelerate the digestion of organic material while maintaining a low environmental impact and low toxicity. They do lose effectiveness in temperature and water pH extremes, however, and for best results they should be introduced into a totally clean tank.

Holding tanks don't rely on mechanical devices for their trouble free operation. The most common problem unpleasant one - clogging. You can minimize the chances of clogging by keeping the following considerations in mind:

• Keep the black water tank knife valve tank to at least 3/4 full before draining. Be sure to cover the tank bottom with water after draining.
• Use only toilet tissue formulated for tank or RV sanitation systems.
• Keep both knife valves closed and locked, and the drain cap tightly in place when using the system on the road.
• Use only cleaners that are approved for use in septic tank or RV sanitation systems.
• Use a special holding tank deodorant chemical approved for septic tank systems in the black water holding tank. These chemicals aid the breakdown of solid wastes and make the system much more pleasant to use.
• Do not put facial tissue, paper, ethylene glycol based or other automotive antifreeze, sanitary napkins or household toilet cleaners in the holding tanks.
• Do not put anything solid in either tank that could scratch or puncture the tank.
• If the drain system does get clogged:
• Use a hand-operated probe to loosen stubborn accumulations. Seriously clogged P-traps may require disassembly. Be careful not to over tighten when reassembling.
• Do not use harsh household drain cleaners.
• Do not use motorized drain augers.

Sometimes the holding tank valve will get clogged. In this case, a hand-operated auger may be necessary. Be ready to close the valve quickly once the clog is cleared. If the seal gets damaged, it is easily replaced.

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NOTE: This online manual  is a work in progress and is subject to change at any given time. It is also a generic peace of work and is meant only as a general guide. Each Caravan/RV is distinct and individual in it's own right, do not take anything written here literally as it may or may not apply to the exact Caravan/RV you will be using.