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Please read our Plumbing System page for more information.
There are two water sources for every RV,
- The fresh water tank and spigot.
- Campground water. Past the fresh water holding tank the problems start.
Often when a manufacturer installs a tank, and reams out the holes necessary to connect the lines to it, the "grumblies" (the small crumbles of fiberglass left by the cutting) will get from the tank into the pump screens. If you have low water on your incoming lines, check the pump filter, it may be plugged with plastic.
Use an inline pressure regulator -- water pressure can break lines and damage fixtures.
WARNING
THE WATER HEATER AND FURNACE COMBUSTION AIR EXHAUST PORTS MAY BE EXTREMELY HOT DURING WATER HEATER AND FURNACE OPERATION. DO NOT TOUCH THESE OUTLETS OR ALLOW ANY MATERIAL TO COME WITHIN CLOSE PROXIMITY OF EXHAUST PORTS WHILE OPERATING THE WATER HEATER AND/OR FURNACE.
The water heater operates on LP gas, and is much like the one in your home. It contains an automatic shut off valve which stops the gas supply if the water temperature rises too high. The water heater is reached through an access panel on the outside of the motor home.
CAUTION
DO NOT LIGHT WATER HEATER UNTIL IT IS FILLED WITH WATER.
Turn on the hot water faucet at the galley sink. If water flows continuously the heater is full.
A valve is provided to cut off the flow of water to the water heater. The bypass valve greatly reduces the quantity of antifreeze required to winterize the water system.
To bypass the water heater, turn the lever valve perpendicular to pipe direction. To supply water heater with water, turn lever parallel to pipe direction.
The hot water tank ("HWT") is the only major appliance in the water system. It is often overlooked, but needs maintenance.
- Flush it out at least once or twice a year to get rid of the sediment on the bottom of the tank.
- If your HWT isn't burning right, check for insects in the burner area. They are attracted to propane.
- When winterizing, install a bypass so you can add antifreeze to your system without contaminating the system. If can be hard to get antifreeze out of the HWT, so don't get it in the first place.
If you have a dripping faucet because of the water pressure or age (plastic fixtures will eventually leak), try this: remove the small circle on top of the faucet, remove the screw, and lift out the inset. Turn it 1/8 turn toward on, and replace the whole thing. This should reseat the faucet and stop the leak.
The water valve and hose behind the toilet is very sensitive to water pressure, freezing, or being crimped. If this goes, get a new one.
Flush the system. Fill the fresh water tank, add a solution of vinegar and water and flush it through the system 3 or 4 times. Chase with fresh water. This kills any bacteria that may be in the system.
Do not put any home "remedies" in the holding tanks. This can cause all sorts of unpleasant reactions, including the creation of chlorine gas, which can be fatal. Therefore makes a holding tank contact cleaner, which is good for cleaning, but possibly should not be used if you are draining into a septic system.
You can use toilet cleaner in the gray water system. It should be done every second or third time you empty the system.
Tip: spray silicone sealer on the "knife" of the toilet, (the piece that separates the top from the holding tank tube) and the seal to keep the seal soft and seating better.
By hooking up to the campground's water, you'll have water pressure to all water appliances -- sinks, toilet, shower, etc. And if you're out in the woods, you'll be using your 12 volt water pump. Somewhere in the RV you'll have an "on/off" button. Turn it "on", and it will build up water pressure and use water from your fresh water holding tank. When you turn on a faucet, the water will flow, and the water pump will come on again to replenish the water pressure. Going down the road is like a 3.5 earthquake, so turn it off. Breaks or leaks can occur, so turn the water pump off when you're driving. That will avoid any unwanted surprises.
Aside from winterizing, there is very little care and feeding of the water system. Drain the water tank periodically, see instructions for chlorinating/sanitizing the water system, and refill with fresh water.
The best way is to take household bleach, 1/4 cup to each 15 gallons of tank capacity. Mix some in water (so you're not using straight bleach), and fill the tank. Run all the faucets (except the toilet) to get the solution in all the lines. Drive around the block to slosh it; then empty it. Next use a half cup of regular baking soda dissolved in a bucket of water. Fill the tank again and then drain it. Then fill and drain it one more time. At this point your tank should be pristine. Make sure you drain the system if your RV is to be left in cold weather. Burst pipes can cause a great deal of damage.
Water leaks are the bane of RVers. If a connection gets loose, water gets in. A good seal is essential to avoid dry rot. Check your roofs for gaps. Do not use a silicone sealer anywhere except around windows as it can become brittle.
The best 25 foot hose for connecting to city water is a 1/2 inch diameter permanently coiled hose as sold at camping world.
The pressure relief valve on the water tank is
designed TO leak. Don't worry if you get a few drops from it from time to time.
It's just doing its job.
The drain plug (anode rod) in the Suburban hot water tank is MADE to be
"sacrificed". Bad water is intended to eat them up so they don't eat
the tank up. They can need replacement in as little as a few months. The lowest
cost source for replacing them is Camping World ($5.75), rather than $20
elsewhere.
NOTE: This online manual is a work in progress and is subject to change at any given time. It is also a generic peace of work and is meant only as a general guide. Each Caravan/RV is distinct and individual in it's own right, do not take anything written here literally as it may or may not apply to the exact Caravan/RV you will be using.